Wednesday, October 7, 2026

5 Prime Big Deal Days Deals

 


5 Prime Big Deal Days Deals Motorhome Owners Won’t Want to Miss

Amazon’s Prime Big Deal Days sale comes to an end today, 7 October, and there are still some excellent bargains available for motorhome owners.

Whether you’re looking for a simple way to control moisture inside your motorhome, something to make cleaning easier, a portable projector for cosy evenings or extra power for your devices, there are some genuinely useful products included in the sale.

I’ve picked out five deals that I think are particularly worth a look for motorhomers.

Please note: prices and availability can change at any time. Some links below may be affiliate links, which means we may earn a commission if you make a purchase, at no extra cost to you.

1. UniBond AERO 360° Moisture Absorber – £12.49

Was £14.71 – now £12.49, saving around 30%

Moisture can quickly become a problem inside a motorhome, particularly during colder weather or when your vehicle is being stored for longer periods.

The UniBond AERO 360° Moisture Absorber is a compact option designed to help remove excess moisture from the air while also helping to neutralise unpleasant smells.

Its 360-degree air circulation design makes it suitable for relatively small spaces, and UniBond says it can be used in rooms of up to 20m² – making it potentially well suited to motorhomes and campervans.

It doesn’t require electricity either. Instead, it uses replaceable moisture-absorbing tabs, with one tab included and each tab designed to last for up to three months depending on conditions.

Why motorhomers might like it:
Compact, silent, electricity-free and easy to leave inside your motorhome when you’re not using it.

Check the UniBond AERO 360° Moisture Absorber on Amazon


Motorhome Fridges: The Ultimate Guide

Motorhome Fridges:

The Ultimate Guide to Preparation, Operation, and Troubleshooting

Whether you're planning a weekend getaway in the Scottish Highlands or a multi-week European road trip across the continent, having a reliable, ice-cold fridge is essential for an enjoyable getaway. From keeping your morning milk fresh to ensuring your evening Chardonnay is properly chilled, mastering your motorhome's refrigeration system is a key skill for every road-tripper.

Drawing on expert insights from industry authority John Sootheran and tried-and-tested touring advice, this expanded guide covers everything you need to know to prep, run, maintain, and troubleshoot your motorhome fridge with confidence.

1. Motorhome Fridge Technologies Explained

Three way absorbtion fridge

Before hitting the road, it helps to understand the mechanics behind your cooling system. Most motorhomes use one of two primary fridge types:

  • Absorption Fridges (The Touring Standard): The vast majority of motorhomes use absorption refrigerators. These units have no moving parts, making them completely silent and reliable. They rely on heat (from gas or electricity) to cycle refrigerant through a closed loop. Crucially, they are three-way units running on:

    • 230V Mains Electricity (when plugged into campsite hook-up or home drive)

    • Gas (LPG) (ideal for off-grid wild camping)

    • 12V DC (strictly for maintaining temperature while the vehicle engine is running)

  • Compressor Fridges (Common in Campervans): Frequently found in smaller campervans and PVCs (panel van conversions), these operate similarly to a household fridge. They feature an electric compressor, cool down rapidly, and run primarily on 12V leisure battery power.

Capacity Tip: Built-in, under-counter motorhome fridges can be tight for families or extended trips. Packing a high-performance portable cool box for your cab or outdoor awning is a fantastic way to expand your cold-storage capacity.

2. Pre-Trip Preparation: Beating Spoilage Before You Leave

Never leave your fridge preparation until the morning you depart. Proper pre-trip prep prevents spoiled food and ensures a stress-free start to your holiday.

The Step-by-Step Pre-Cooling Protocol

  1. Test All Three Modes: Before packing up, test your absorption fridge on all three power sources (mains, gas, and 12V) to ensure each ignites and switches correctly. A standard annual habitation service should also include testing that the gas burner produces a clean blue flame and checking flue emissions.

  2. Pre-Cool at Home: Plug your motorhome into your home mains supply using a heavy-duty extension cable at least 24 hours before your trip.

  3. Speed Up the Process: Toss in frozen ice-packs or pre-chilled, non-perishable goods (like bottled water) to help the internal temperature drop faster. Avoid overfilling it initially, as airflow is needed to circulate the cold air.

Food Safety Warning:  

Failing to keep your fridge at the correct operating temperature 1° and  -4° can rapidly transform a dream holiday into a health nightmare. Warm food acts as a breeding ground for Listeria monocytogenes—the dangerous bacteria responsible for listeriosis, which causes fever, severe sickness, and diarrhoea.

3. Mastering the Three Power Sources & Off-Grid Touring

Understanding how and when to use your fridge's power modes maximizes efficiency and protects your leisure battery.

  • 230V Mains Electricity: This provides the most powerful and effective cooling performance. Always use mains power when plugged in at home or on a serviced campsite pitch.

  • Gas (LPG): Highly efficient for off-grid wild camping or touring remote regions. Note: Never run your fridge on gas while driving or refuelling at petrol stations; always switch to 12V mode on the road. If you haven't used your fridge on gas for a while, a slight burning smell upon initial startup is completely normal; running it on gas for an hour beforehand clears this out.

  • 12V Engine Power: This mode is strictly designed to maintain internal temperature while driving (it only draws power when the alternator is running). Remember: The average leisure battery can only power an absorption fridge for a few hours at most if disconnected from the engine or mains hook-up.

4. Why Motorhome Fridges Need to Be Level


One of the most common pitfalls for motorhome owners is ignoring vehicle leveling.

Absorption fridges rely heavily on gravity. Inside the unit, a liquid solution is heated, turning into vapour that rises to a heat exchanger, extracts heat from the interior, and then condenses back into liquid to flow downward. If your motorhome is parked on a noticeable slope, gravity cannot pull the condensed liquid correctly, and the cooling cycle completely stalls.

  • The Fix: Always pack reliable motorhome leveling ramps. Use a small spirit level  to ensure your van is level before settling in for the evening.

5. Advanced Troubleshooting: What to Do When Your Fridge Won't Cool

Even well-maintained fridges can occasionally act up on tour. Here is how to diagnose and address common issues:

  • Symptom: Fridge isn't cooling on gas.

    • Check: Is your gas cylinder turned on, and is the internal isolation valve open? Have you purged air from the lines by running the hob first? Look through the inspection window or listen for the igniter clicking.

  • Symptom: Fridge isn't cooling on 230V mains.

    • Check: Verify that your campsite hook-up lead is securely connected and that the motorhome's internal RCD trip switch hasn't tripped. Check if the fridge's internal 230V element needs replacing.

  • Symptom: Food is freezing inside the main fridge compartment.

    • Check: The thermostat may be set too high, or the thermistor (the small plastic clip attached to the fin inside the fridge) has slipped out of position. Move the thermistor down for a colder setting or higher for a warmer setting.

  • Symptom: A slight burning smell when starting on gas.

    • Context: This is normal if the fridge hasn’t been run on gas for several weeks. However, if the smell persists or is accompanied by soot around the external vents, turn it off immediately and have a certified technician inspect the burner and flue.

6. Smart Packing & Food Storage Hacks

  • Air Circulation: Never cram your fridge to maximum capacity. Leave space for chilled air to circulate freely around items, and ensure food packages do not touch the back inner wall (which can cause items to freeze or frost over).

  • Temperature Zones: The bottom shelves are consistently the coldest, making them ideal for raw meats, dairy, and perishables. The top shelves maintain the most stable, moderate temperature.

  • Pre-Freezing Trick: Pre-freeze items like milk and bread before loading them. They act as natural ice blocks, helping lower the fridge's internal temperature while staying fresh longer.

  • Ferry Crossings: On short ferry crossings, an unopened absorption fridge will easily retain its internal cold for hours. On longer Channel or European crossings where power must be switched off, plan ahead and purchase fresh perishables once you disembark.

  • The Door Seal Test: Set your fridge between 1° and -4°. Perform the "paper test" on your door seals: trap a piece of paper in the door and close it. If you can pull the paper out with zero resistance, your door seals have worn down and need replacing.

What to Store In (and Out of) the Fridge

  • Keep Out of the Fridge: Potatoes, onions, tomatoes, berries, melons, bananas, and olive oil (which solidifies at cold temperatures) should be kept out of the fridge until immediately before consumption.

  • Ethylene Gas Separation: Avocados and tomatoes produce ethylene gas, which causes nearby produce to ripen and spoil too rapidly. Keep them separated.

  • Herbs & Grains: Wrap hard-stalk herbs in a damp paper towel inside a resealable bag. Keep soft-stalk herbs upright in a jar with an inch of water, loosely covered with plastic. Dry grains like quinoa and lentils store brilliantly in the freezer compartment.

7. Post-Trip Maintenance, Cleaning & Winterisation

Proper aftercare ensures your fridge operates efficiently for years to come:

  • Deep Cleaning: Once home, completely empty the fridge. Wash the interior surfaces using a warm water and bicarbonate of soda solution. If stubborn odours remain, leave half an onion or an open box of baking soda inside overnight to neutralize them.

  • Storage Mode: When your motorhome is parked up between trips, leave the fridge door slightly ajar to maintain airflow and prevent mould growth. Most modern motorhome fridges feature built-in door latches specifically designed for this purpose.

  • Annual Servicing: Ensure your annual habitation service includes a thorough inspection of the fridge burner, seals, electronic ignition, and external ventilation grilles.

What is your go-to tip or hack for keeping food fresh when touring across the UK and Europe?

All links in this blog are Amazon Affiliate Links, You will not pay extra, but a very small commission goes to support Motorhome Touring's Social Media Groups. If you still wish to make a small donation, see the PayPal or Buy Me A Coffee links in my Linktree Bio 

Thank you so much!

If you’re looking for more tips, honest gear reviews, or just a place to share your latest trip photos, come and join the conversation! You can catch me over on my YouTube channel Johnny Burr, or join one of our active Facebook groups, Motorhome Touring Scotland and Motorhome Touring The UK andEurope. We’ve also got a buzzing community over on our Motorhome Touring Discord server, where we share real-time updates and advice. And of course, keep an eye and an ear out for my content on Caravan Radio. Let’s get out there and enjoy the journey together!

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Monday, September 28, 2026

Scotland's NC500 P3 "10 days Back Down South"

  Scotland's NC500 Pt.3 "10 days Back Down South"

The NC500 in 10 day trips. See menu at the end of this blog for the next part

Embarking on a 10-day motorhome tour from Durness down to Inverness while exploring the   Isle of Skye offers an unforgettable journey through Scotland's most dramatic northern coastlines, rugged mountain passes, and legendary lochs.

Days 1–2: Northwest Highlands & Loch Broom

Durness marks your starting point on the breathtaking northwest coast, offering dramatic limestone caves and pristine white-sand beaches.

  • Explore the massive chambers of Smoo Cave and walk along the stunning coastal dunes.

  • Overnight Stop: 

  • Sango Sands Oasis

    • The Setting: Perched dramatically on the clifftops overlooking award-winning golden beaches and turquoise waters on the far northwest tip.

    • Motorhome Facilities: Comprehensive motorhome amenities including electric hookups, fresh water, chemical waste disposal, and an on-site bar/restaurant.

    • Why Stay: Widely regarded as one of the best stops on the northern route, offering legendary sunset views, proximity to Smoo Cave, and an epic finale for your trip.

Scotland's NC500 Pt.2 "10 days Across the top"

Scotland's NC500 Pt.2 "10 days Across the top"

The NC500 in 10 day trips. See menu at the end of this blog for the next part

Embarking on a 10-day motorhome tour along Scotland's dramatic far-north coast from John o' Groats to Durness offers an incredible journey past rugged sea stacks, historic castles, white-sand beaches, and sweeping cliffscapes.

Days 1–2: The Northeast Corner & Dramatic Stacks



  • Snap a photo by the famous fingerpost signpost marking the classic end-to-end journey distance.

  • Explore the local craft shops and visitor facilities situated right along the waterfront.

  • Overnight Stop: Park up at the local John o' Groats caravan and camping site, which provides full motorhome service points and electric hookups.

  • John o' Groats Caravan & Camping Site

    • The Setting: Perched right on the edge of the coastline with uninterrupted, sweeping views across the Pentland Firth toward the Orkney Islands.

    • Motorhome Facilities: Level hardstanding pitches, electric hookups, fresh water refill points, and chemical waste disposal.

    • Why Stay: It places you right at the doorstep of the iconic signpost, making it an effortless first-night stop after exploring the harbour.












Scotland's NC500 Pt.1 "10 days Up to the top"

 Scotland's NC500 Pt.1 "10 days Up to the top"

The NC500 in 10 day trips. See menu at the end of this blog for the next part

Embarking on a 10-day motorhome tour from Dingwall to John o' Groats offers an incredible journey along Scotland's stunning northeastern coastline, leading you past historic castles, dramatic sea cliffs, and world-famous wildlife spots.

Days 1–2: Black Isle & Coastal Waters

Dingwall serves as your gateway town, offering convenient local amenities and a rich market-town history before heading out onto the scenic coastal routes north.













Monday, September 21, 2026

Winter Proofing Your Motorhome

 

Winter Proofing Your Motorhome

The Ultimate Guide to Motorhome Dehumidifiers

As the season changes and many of us look to lay up our motorhomes for the winter, the battle against damp begins. We all know the dreaded smell of a musty van or the sinking feeling of finding mildew on the upholstery in spring.

While ventilation is key, a small dehumidifier can be the single best investment you make to protect your pride and joy during those cold, wet months. But how do they work, and which one should you choose? Let’s dive in.

How Do Small Dehumidifiers Work?

To choose the right unit, it helps to understand that not all dehumidifiers work the same way. For motorhomes, you will generally encounter three main types:

1. Peltier (Thermoelectric)

These are the very small, lightweight units often found on Amazon. They work by pulling air over a cold metal plate. The moisture condenses on the plate and drips into a tank.

  • The Catch: They rely on a temperature difference to work. If your motorhome is cold (below 15°C), they extract very little moisture.

2. Desiccant

These use a wheel made of water-absorbing material (like a sponge) to soak up moisture from the air. A heater then warms the wheel to release the water into the tank.

  • The Benefit: Because they use heat, they work efficiently even in temperatures as low as 1°C. They also blow warm air out, which can help keep the chill off your van's interior.

3. Compressor

These work like a fridge, using refrigerant coils to create a cold surface. They are powerful and energy-efficient in warm homes (20°C+) but often struggle in unheated motorhomes during winter, spending much of their time in "defrost mode" rather than drying the air.

Benefits of Using a Dehumidifier During Winter Storage

Leaving a dehumidifier running (assuming you have access to mains hook-up) offers massive advantages:

  • Prevents Mould & Mildew: By keeping relative humidity below 60%, mould spores cannot grow. This saves your upholstery, curtains, and mattresses from those unsightly black spots.

  • Protects Electronics: High humidity can lead to corrosion on sensitive electrical contacts and circuit boards within the dashboard and control panels.

  • Eliminates Odours: That "stale winter smell" is actually caused by damp and bacteria. A dry van smells fresh when you open the door in March.

  • Preserves Resale Value: A van that is dry and mould-free retains its value significantly better than one with water-stained walls or mildew damage.

  • Ready to Go: There’s no need to air out the van for days before your first trip; bedding feels dry and crisp immediately.

Pros and Cons of Motorhome Dehumidifiers

Before you buy, weigh up these factors:

Pros

  • Active Protection: Actively removes moisture rather than just trapping a small amount like passive crystals.

  • Heat Generation (Desiccant): Desiccant models add a few degrees of warmth to the interior, reducing frost risk.

  • Continuous Drainage: Most models allow you to attach a hose that drains directly into your sink or shower tray (leave the grey waste open!), so you don't have to visit the van weekly to empty the tank.

  • Healthier Environment: Reduces dust mites and allergens for the next season.

Cons

  • Requires Power: You need a reliable 230V hook-up. They will not run off your 12V leisure battery for long without draining it flat.

  • Running Costs: While efficient, they do add to your electricity bill. Desiccant models use slightly more power than compressor ones.

  • Monitoring Required: Unless you set up continuous drainage, you must visit the van to empty the tank, or the unit will auto-shutoff and stop working.

  • Noise: Not an issue for storage, but if you plan to sleep in the van with it on, fan noise can be noticeable.

Top 3 Small Dehumidifiers on Amazon for Motorhomes

(All links are for Amazon. I earn a small commission for each sale, but the cost to you is the same.)

Here are three distinct options found on Amazon that suit different motorhome needs:

1. The Winter Warrior: EcoAir DD1 Simple (Desiccant)



  • Best for: Unheated winter storage in the UK.

  • Why it works: This is widely considered the "gold standard" for motorhome storage. Because it is a desiccant model, it doesn't care if it's freezing outside; it will keep extracting moisture down to 1°C. It’s compact, lightweight (6kg), and powerful (extracts up to 7.5 Litres/day).

  • Key Feature: It has a rotary dial humidistat, so you can set it to a specific level and it will turn itself on and off automatically to maintain that level, saving energy.

Friday, September 18, 2026

Taking a Motorbike on a Motorhome Tour

 

Taking a Motorbike on a Motorhome Tour 

The Complete Guide

Why carry two wheels instead of towing a car? Everything you need to know about choosing, transporting, securing and riding a motorbike or scooter while touring in your motorhome.

One of the great pleasures of motorhome touring is the freedom to arrive somewhere, set up your pitch and then explore at your own pace. The problem comes when you want to leave the campsite but don't want to pack everything away and move the motorhome.

Walking to the local shop might be fine for a few essentials, but what if the supermarket is several miles away? Or there's a coastal village you'd like to visit, a country pub you've spotted on the map, or a scenic route that isn't particularly motorhome-friendly?

For many motorhome owners, the obvious solution is to tow a small car.

But towing a car isn't the only option.

A lightweight motorbike, scooter or moped can provide surprisingly effective transport once your motorhome is parked. It can be considerably easier to park than a car, cheaper to run and, depending on the bike and your licence, perfectly capable of handling much more than a trip to the campsite shop.

There are, however, some important considerations. You need to think about your driving licence, the weight of the bike, your motorhome's payload and axle limits, how you'll transport and secure it, your towbar or rack capacity, insurance and, of course, where you'll store all that riding gear.

Here's what you need to know before putting two wheels on the back of your motorhome.

Why take a motorbike touring in a motorhome?

The biggest advantage is simple: mobility after you've pitched up.

Once your motorhome is level, the awning is out and the campsite has become home for the next few days, you don't necessarily want to dismantle everything simply to make a trip into town.

A small motorbike or scooter gives you an independent means of transport without the size and complexity of a second car.

The main advantages

Easy parking: A scooter can often be parked where finding space for a motorhome or car would be difficult.

Low running costs: Small-capacity petrol scooters and motorbikes generally use little fuel, while electric models can be economical to charge.

Compact dimensions: A small bike takes considerably less space than a car.

Fun: A motorbike isn't simply practical transport. Riding can become part of the holiday itself.

Access to narrow roads: Small bikes can make it easier to explore villages, coastal lanes and other places where a large motorhome isn't particularly welcome.

Less weight than a car: Even with a suitable carrier or trailer, a small scooter is usually far lighter than a car and trailer combination.

Potentially lower ownership costs: Insurance, servicing, taxation and fuel costs for a small motorcycle can be substantially lower than running a second car.

There are drawbacks, though. You have less protection from bad weather, limited carrying capacity and the additional responsibility of transporting another vehicle safely.


First things first: check your licence

Before buying anything, establish exactly what you're legally entitled to ride.

Motorcycle and moped licensing in the UK is more complicated than simply having a full car licence. The bike's engine size, power, your age, the date your licence was issued and the categories shown on your licence can all affect what you're allowed to ride.

A full motorcycle licence provides the greatest flexibility, but there are routes that allow appropriately qualified riders to use smaller motorcycles and mopeds.

If you only hold a category B car licence, don't assume that you can automatically ride any small scooter. Your entitlement may depend on when your licence was issued and the specific categories and codes recorded on it.

Compulsory Basic Training (CBT) is relevant to many riders who want to ride smaller motorcycles or mopeds, but it isn't the same thing as obtaining a full motorcycle licence.

The safest approach is to check your current licence entitlement with the DVLA before buying a bike.

Don't buy a 125cc scooter on the assumption that your car licence covers it, only to discover that you need additional training or testing.

Your licence should be the starting point for choosing the bike, not something you investigate afterwards.


Choose the right bike for motorhome touring

You don't necessarily need a large motorcycle.

In fact, for many motorhome owners, a big touring motorcycle is exactly the wrong choice.

The ideal bike for motorhome touring is often:

    • lightweight
    • compact
    • economical
    • easy to load
    • easy to secure
    • reliable
    • relatively simple to maintain
    • suitable for the roads you intend to ride
    • small enough to work with your motorhome's payload and carrying system

Scooter or motorcycle?

A small scooter can make an excellent motorhome companion.

Its automatic transmission makes it straightforward to ride, while under-seat storage can provide somewhere to keep small items. Step-through designs can also be convenient for short journeys around towns and campsites.

A small motorcycle gives you more traditional motorcycle characteristics and can be better suited to longer distances, faster roads and less urban riding.

The important thing is not to choose purely on engine size.

Think about how you'll actually use it.

If the bike is primarily going to be used for trips to the supermarket, visiting nearby villages and getting around a campsite, a compact scooter or moped may be ideal.

If you intend to ride 50 or 100 miles during the day, tackle hilly areas or spend entire days touring independently of the motorhome, a larger and more capable motorcycle may make more sense.

But remember: every additional kilogram matters when you're carrying the bike on your motorhome.


Don't overlook small-wheel bikes

Honda Monkey Bike 125cc

Compact bikes and scooters can be particularly attractive because they're lightweight and easy to transport.

Monkey-style bikes, small scooters and other compact motorcycles can be surprisingly capable around towns and villages.

However, small wheels have disadvantages.

They can be more affected by potholes, gravel, rough surfaces and poor road conditions than a conventional full-sized motorcycle.

That makes them excellent for short trips on reasonably good roads but potentially less comfortable for long-distance touring.

A folding or ultra-compact motorcycle can also be tempting if storage space is limited. These bikes can be extremely clever from a packaging perspective, but check their weight, road performance, availability of parts and servicing support before buying.


Electric scooters and motorcycles

Electric two-wheelers are another possibility for motorhome touring.

They have several obvious advantages:

    • no petrol fumes
    • quiet operation
    • potentially low running costs
    • simple controls
    • little routine mechanical maintenance
    • no need to carry petrol

But range is critical.

A manufacturer's quoted range isn't necessarily the range you'll achieve on holiday. Speed, rider weight, hills, temperature, wind, tyre pressures and riding style can all affect battery performance.

Think about your typical day.

If you're planning a 20-mile round trip to the shops and back, a modest-range electric scooter might be perfectly adequate.

If you're planning a full day's exploration through hilly countryside, you'll need considerably more range, and ideally a comfortable safety margin.

Charging needs careful thought

Before buying an electric scooter, consider where you'll charge it.

Check:

    • the charging requirements
    • battery capacity
    • charging time
    • whether the battery is removable
    • whether the manufacturer permits the battery to be charged inside your motorhome
    • campsite electrical restrictions
    • how you'll protect the charger and cables from weather

Never assume that because a battery is removable it is automatically safe or appropriate to charge it inside the habitation area. Follow the manufacturer's instructions.


Buying a used motorbike for motorhome touring

A second-hand scooter can be an inexpensive way into motorhome biking, but buying carefully is essential.

Don't be tempted by a suspiciously cheap motorcycle simply because it looks like a bargain.

Check the paperwork

The registration document should correspond with the motorcycle and seller.

Check:

    • registration number
    • VIN/chassis number
    • engine number where applicable
    • seller's details
    • mileage
    • MOT history where applicable
    • service history
    • number of previous keepers
    • outstanding finance or theft history

A vehicle history check can provide another layer of protection.

Most importantly, physically inspect the bike before handing over money.

If you're buying privately and something about the paperwork or seller doesn't feel right, walk away.

Check the VIN

The VIN is a particularly important identification point.

Make sure the number on the motorcycle corresponds with the documentation. If anything appears altered, damaged or inconsistent, don't proceed until you've established exactly why.

Be especially cautious if the seller has no convincing ownership history or paperwork.

If you're uncomfortable assessing a motorcycle yourself, consider buying through an established motorcycle dealer or paying for an independent inspection.

A cheap motorcycle isn't a bargain if it subsequently needs thousands of pounds spent on it.


How will you carry the motorbike?

This is arguably the most important practical question.

There are four broad possibilities:

    1. Inside a dedicated motorhome garage
    2. On a chassis-mounted or towbar-mounted motorcycle carrier
    3. On a motorcycle trailer
    4. Using a specialist carrier system that incorporates additional wheels or trailer-style support

The right choice depends on your motorhome, the motorcycle and your available payload.


Carrying the bike inside the motorhome

If your motorhome has a purpose-built garage

 designed to carry a motorcycle, this can be an excellent arrangement.

The motorcycle is protected from the weather and doesn't require an external carrier.

But there is a major distinction between a properly designed motorcycle garage and simply putting a motorcycle into an ordinary storage compartment.

Petrol fumes are a serious consideration

Petrol-powered motorcycles can release fuel vapour.

You should never assume that an ordinary motorhome garage is suitable for carrying a petrol motorcycle unless it has been specifically designed and approved for that purpose.

Petrol vapour inside the habitation area presents both a health hazard and a fire risk.

Gas appliances, electrical equipment and other potential ignition sources make this something that should be taken extremely seriously.

An electric motorcycle avoids petrol vapour, but that doesn't remove the need to secure it properly.

The motorcycle needs to be restrained so that it cannot move during braking, acceleration or cornering.

You also need to protect:

    • furniture
    • doors
    • walls
    • flooring
    • cables
    • other stored equipment

And then there's the practical issue.

A motorcycle inside the garage can make access to everything else considerably more difficult.

If you need to move a 100kg motorcycle every time you want your outdoor chairs, toilet chemicals or camping equipment, the novelty may soon wear off.


The payload problem

This is where many motorhome owners get caught out.

Your motorhome has a maximum permitted weight, and that weight includes everything you're carrying.

That means:

    • passengers
    • fuel
    • water
    • food
    • clothing
    • camping equipment
    • gas
    • accessories
    • bicycles
    • tools
    • luggage
    • motorcycle
    • carrier
    • towbar
    • trailer
    • anything else you've added

A motorcycle weighing 100kg doesn't necessarily mean you've only used 100kg of your payload.

If the carrier weighs 40kg, you've already added 140kg.

A trailer has its own weight too.

And because loads mounted at the rear of a motorhome can have a significant effect on axle loading, simply staying below the motorhome's overall maximum weight isn't necessarily enough.

Visit a weighbridge

If you're serious about carrying a motorcycle, weighing the motorhome is one of the best things you can do.

Ideally, establish:

    • total vehicle weight
    • front axle weight
    • rear axle weight

Do this with the motorhome loaded as you would normally travel.

Then calculate what happens when the motorcycle and carrier are added.

Never rely solely on the brochure's quoted payload.

Your real touring payload can be significantly different from the theoretical figure because motorhomes accumulate equipment over time.


Carrying a motorbike on a towbar

A towbar can be an extremely useful addition to a motorhome.

It can potentially provide a mounting point for:

    • bike racks
    • motorcycle carriers
    • trailers
    • luggage systems
    • other accessories

But not every motorhome is suitable for a towbar-mounted motorcycle.

Rear overhang is particularly important.

A motorcycle mounted a long way behind the rear axle can create significant leverage, increasing the load imposed on the rear of the chassis and potentially affecting axle loading.

Some motorhomes require chassis extensions or other structural modifications before a suitable towbar can be installed.

This is why professional advice is important.

Use a reputable motorhome towbar specialist rather than assuming that a generic towbar designed for a passenger car will be suitable.


Understand towbar noseweight

One of the most important numbers you'll encounter is noseweight.

Noseweight is the downward force imposed on the towball by the load.

Your towbar will have a maximum permitted noseweight, but your motorhome manufacturer may specify a different limit.

The lower applicable limit is the one you must respect.

For example, if the towbar is rated for a higher noseweight than the vehicle is designed to carry, the vehicle limit wins.

This becomes especially important with a motorcycle carrier because the motorcycle isn't sitting directly over the towball.

The further the weight is positioned behind the vehicle, the greater the leverage can become.

A carrier rated to carry 150kg doesn't automatically mean your motorhome can safely carry a 150kg motorcycle on it.

You need to consider the complete installation and the vehicle's individual limits.


Motorcycle carriers and scooter racks

A dedicated motorcycle carrier can be one of the simplest ways to transport a small bike.

Many systems include a loading ramp, allowing you to push or ride the motorcycle onto the platform before securing it.

The major advantages are:

    • relatively compact
    • no separate trailer to store
    • quick to load
    • easy access once you're at the campsite
    • potentially simpler manoeuvring than a trailer

But the disadvantages include:

    • considerable rear overhang
    • increased rear axle loading
    • additional vehicle length
    • increased overall weight
    • potential visibility issues
    • the need for extremely secure tie-downs

Never select a carrier solely because its advertised capacity exceeds the motorcycle's weight.

You need to establish whether the motorhome itself is capable of carrying that load safely.


When a trailer makes more sense

For heavier motorcycles, a trailer can be the better option.

Large touring motorcycles can easily weigh 200kg or more, and some are considerably heavier.

Trying to put a large motorcycle onto a lightweight carrier designed for scooters isn't appropriate.

A dedicated motorcycle trailer distributes the load differently and can provide a much more practical solution for heavier bikes.

Lightweight single-bike trailers can also be relatively inexpensive and easy to store.

Some models fold, which is particularly useful for motorhome touring.

However, a trailer introduces another consideration: you now have another vehicle to manoeuvre.

Reversing, parking, ferry bookings, campsite access and storage all become more complicated.

You also need to establish:

    • maximum permitted towing weight
    • maximum trailer weight
    • noseweight
    • trailer dimensions
    • braking requirements
    • your driving licence entitlement
    • the motorhome's towing capacity

Don't assume that because the motorcycle itself is lightweight, the entire trailer combination will automatically be legal.


Securing the motorcycle properly

Once you've worked out how to carry the bike, you need to make sure it cannot move.

This isn't an area for improvisation.

Use a proper motorcycle tie-down system and follow the carrier or trailer manufacturer's instructions.

The motorcycle should be restrained against movement in multiple directions.

Before travelling, check:

    • front and rear restraints
    • wheel position
    • handlebar stability
    • suspension compression
    • straps for damage
    • carrier fixings
    • trailer couplings
    • safety chains
    • lighting
    • number plate visibility

Avoid relying on a single strap or a single attachment point.

The bike needs to remain secure not only on a smooth motorway but during emergency braking, potholes, sharp corners and sudden changes in direction.

Check it again after driving

After travelling a short distance, stop somewhere safe and inspect everything.

Straps can settle.

Suspension can compress.

Components can move.

A quick check early in the journey can prevent a much more serious problem later.


Loading and unloading safely

A motorcycle carrier may look simple until you have a 100kg-plus motorcycle at the top of a narrow ramp.

Don't underestimate the difficulty.

If possible:

    • load on level ground
    • avoid slippery surfaces
    • keep the ramp clean and dry
    • use a suitable loading ramp
    • have another person assist
    • ensure the ramp is properly secured
    • keep the motorcycle upright and controlled
    • don't attempt to improvise a loading method

If you aren't confident handling the motorcycle, practise at home before your first trip.

You don't want the first time you discover that your chosen loading system is awkward to use to be on a campsite in the rain.


Riding gear: don't compromise on safety

Carrying a motorcycle also means carrying the equipment required to ride it safely.

At a minimum, think carefully about:

    • helmet
    • gloves
    • protective jacket
    • protective trousers
    • motorcycle boots
    • waterproof outerwear
    • high-visibility equipment where appropriate

A motorcycle helmet isn't the place to save money.

Choose a properly approved helmet that fits correctly and meets the current applicable safety standard.

A full-face helmet provides greater protection and weather resistance than an open-face design, although modular helmets can offer a useful compromise between protection and convenience.

Fit matters more than appearance

Don't buy a helmet simply because it looks good or because it has a particular brand name.

Different manufacturers use different internal shapes.

A helmet should fit snugly without creating painful pressure points.

It shouldn't move excessively when you shake your head, and you shouldn't be able to pull it easily away from your head when properly fastened.

Try several models before buying.


Prepare for the British weather

Motorhome touring doesn't magically make British weather predictable.

You can leave the campsite in warm sunshine and find yourself riding through heavy rain half an hour later.

A waterproof riding layer is therefore essential.

Motorcycle-specific clothing is generally a much better choice than ordinary outdoor clothing because it is designed to provide abrasion resistance and protection in a fall.

For longer trips, consider layered clothing so that you can adapt to changing temperatures.

Remember that wind chill becomes particularly noticeable on a motorcycle.


Think about storage

This is one of the less glamorous but very real problems with motorhome motorcycling.

Where will you put two helmets, two jackets, boots, gloves and waterproofs?

Wet motorcycle clothing can quickly turn the motorhome into a damp locker room.

Before buying the bike, think about where the equipment will live.

Possible solutions include:

  • dedicated external storage
  • garage-mounted hooks
  • ventilated storage boxes
  • waterproof bags
  • a separate external locker
  • drying rails designed for outdoor gear

Keep wet clothing away from areas where it can cause condensation problems.


Insurance considerations

Your motorcycle needs appropriate insurance, but don't forget about the motorhome itself.

If you're fitting:

    • a towbar
    • chassis extensions
    • a motorcycle carrier
    • additional rear equipment

tell your motorhome insurer where required.

You should also check whether the modification has any implications for your vehicle warranty.

The motorcycle carrier itself should be suitable for the vehicle and installed according to the manufacturer's instructions.

If you're travelling abroad, check that both the motorcycle and motorhome insurance provide the cover you need in every country on your itinerary.


Don't forget security

A motorcycle can be an attractive target when you're touring.

Even a small scooter should be secured when you're away from it.

Consider carrying:

    • a quality disc lock
    • chain and ground anchor where practical
    • alarm or immobiliser
    • tracking device
    • cover
    • additional security for the carrier itself

When the motorcycle is mounted on the back of the motorhome, think about whether the carrier could itself be targeted.

Security is particularly important if you're leaving the motorhome and motorcycle unattended overnight.


Plan your campsite arrival

One advantage of a motorcycle is that it can remain on the carrier while you set up.

But before choosing a campsite, consider access.

Some campsites have:

    • narrow entrances
    • tight pitches
    • low branches
    • steep approaches
    • soft ground
    • restricted parking
    • weight restrictions

If you're towing a motorcycle trailer, the situation becomes even more important.

A quick look at campsite access information before departure can save you a lot of hassle.


Motorbike versus towing a car

So, which is better?

There isn't a universal answer.

A car is better if:

    • you need to transport several people
    • you regularly carry large amounts of shopping
    • you want weather protection
    • you need substantial luggage capacity
    • you frequently explore long distances
    • you need to transport mobility equipment
    • you don't want to ride in poor weather

A motorbike or scooter is better if:

    • you normally travel as one or two people
    • you want something compact
    • parking is important
    • your trips from the campsite are relatively short
    • you enjoy riding
    • you want lower running costs
    • your motorhome doesn't have the capacity for a car and trailer

For many couples, a small scooter can occupy a useful middle ground between walking and towing a car.


The hidden advantage: exploring without moving the motorhome

Perhaps the biggest benefit isn't actually getting to the supermarket.

It's freedom.

A motorhome can be wonderful for travelling between destinations, but once you're pitched, moving it for a short excursion can be inconvenient.

A motorcycle changes that equation.

You can leave your pitch intact and spend the afternoon exploring.

You might ride to a nearby beach, visit a market town, follow a scenic route, find a country pub or simply stock up on supplies.

Then you return to your motorhome, which is exactly where you left it.

That can make a significant difference to the way you use a campsite as a base.


Is taking a motorbike on a motorhome worth it?

For the right motorhome owner, absolutely.

A small scooter or motorcycle can transform the way you tour.

It provides independence without the cost and complexity of towing a car, takes up comparatively little space and can make everything from a trip to the supermarket to a day exploring the countryside much more enjoyable.

But choosing the bike should come after checking your motorhome's carrying capacity.

The biggest mistake would be to buy the motorcycle first and then discover that your motorhome cannot legally or safely carry it.

Instead, work backwards.

Check your licence. Check your motorhome's weights. Weigh the vehicle. Choose the bike. Select the appropriate carrier or trailer. Then make sure everything is properly secured and insured.

For many motorhome owners, a lightweight scooter or motorcycle is the sweet spot: more useful than a bicycle, considerably simpler than towing a car and small enough to become a practical part of the touring setup.

And once you've parked the motorhome, you're free to explore.

Two wheels can give you the best of both worlds: the comfort of a motorhome as your base and the freedom of a motorcycle when you want to go exploring.

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