Next-Level Security - Levelling Jacks?

Next-Level Security

How Your Levelling Jacks Could Stop a Thief in Their Tracks

Security is always a top priority for the motorhome community. Whether you are parked up for a night in the Highlands or exploring the coast of Europe, knowing your vehicle is safe provides that essential peace of mind. While most of us are familiar with trackers and immobilisers, a new collaboration between VB-Airsuspension and Scorpion Automotive is taking vehicle protection to a literal new level.

They have developed a system where your motorhome’s levelling jacks act as a proactive deterrent the moment an alarm is triggered. Here is everything you need to know about this innovative "complete" security solution.

How It Works: Integration is Key

For the past year, teams from VB-Airsuspension UK and Scorpion Automotive have been working to integrate Scorpion’s Thatcham-approved alarm systems with VB’s SHR (Smart Hydraulic Roller) levelling jacks.

Typically, levelling jacks are used for comfort—stabilising the van so you can sleep and cook on a level surface. However, this new integration turns them into a security tool. If the Scorpion alarm is triggered by an attempted break-in or theft, the SHR levelling system immediately deploys the jacks.

A Visible and Physical Deterrent

The logic behind the system is twofold:

1. Immobilisation: With the jacks deployed, the vehicle becomes incredibly difficult to move. It cannot be easily towed or driven away while the hydraulic legs are firmly planted.

2. Visual Deterrent: A motorhome sitting on its jacks is a clear sign to any opportunistic thief that the vehicle is equipped with advanced security measures, likely encouraging them to move on.

Safety and Compliance

One of the main concerns with automated systems is accidental deployment. To address this, the system includes a dedicated isolator switch. This must be turned on for the alarm-to-jack integration to be active, ensuring the legs don't deploy unexpectedly while you're parked at home or in a busy car park if the alarm is bumped.

Furthermore, because the integration works with Thatcham-approved alarms, it is specifically designed to meet the rigorous standards of the UK insurance market.

Real-World Testing

The system isn't just a concept; it is already being rolled out. VB-Airsuspension has equipped its own demonstration vehicle with the technology, and a secondary system has been installed at TMD Motorhomes in Warwickshire for those who want to see it in action.

Mike Wodehouse, Managing Director of VB-Airsuspension UK, noted that the initial reaction has been strong, reinforcing the idea that motorhome owners are looking for integrated, smart solutions rather than just standalone gadgets.

Want to Upgrade Your Security?

If you are looking to bolster your van's defences, there is currently an introductory offer for the community. By visiting an SHR dealer and quoting the phrase “Settle Anywhere,” you can receive:

• A free alarm module (the first step in the system integration).

• A free motorhome weight suitability check.

Keeping our motorhomes safe means we can focus on what really matters: the next destination and the freedom of the open road.

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What are your thoughts on using levelling jacks as a security measure? Let us know in the comments or join the conversation on our Discord and Facebook groups!

VB Air Suspension UK https://vbairsuspension.co.uk/

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The Ferry or the Tunnel?

Taking a motorhome across the English Channel is a rite of passage for many touring enthusiasts, but the debate between the Eurotunnel and the ferry is one that never truly settles. While the "best" option often depends on your final destination, a look at the mechanical and experiential differences reveals that there is often a clear winner depending on the type of trip you are planning.

The Eurotunnel: The Case for Speed and Efficiency

For those who view the Channel as a hurdle to be cleared as quickly as possible, the Eurotunnel Le Shuttle is the undisputed king of efficiency. The transit itself takes less than an hour, and the process is remarkably streamlined.

Key Advantages:

No "Gangway Anxiety": One of the biggest stressors for motorhome owners—especially those with a long rear overhang—is negotiating the steep or narrow gangways of a ferry. In the tunnel, you simply drive onto a flat, spacious train carriage.
Weatherproof: Unlike the sea, the tunnel isn't affected by gales or rough swells. If you are prone to seasickness or traveling during a stormy season, the tunnel offers total stability.
Convenience: You stay with your vehicle, meaning you can make a quick cup of tea (using your own facilities) or simply relax in your own space for the 35-minute crossing.

The Trade-off: The primary downside is the arrival point. Landing in Coquelles (Calais) puts you in the Pas-de-Calais region. While it’s a functional starting point, it often requires several hours of motorway driving before you reach the more scenic heartlands of France, such as the Loire Valley or the Dordogne.

The Ferry: The "Mini-Cruise" Experience

Choosing the ferry is less about transit and more about beginning the holiday the moment you leave the dock. Whether you are sailing from Dover to Calais or taking the longer western routes to Brittany or Normandy, the ferry offers a "civilized" break that the tunnel simply cannot match.

Key Advantages:

• Strategic Landings: By taking a ferry to ports like Dieppe, Caen, Cherbourg, or St Malo, you bypass the trek from Calais. While the ferry ticket might cost more, you often save significantly on fuel and French motorway tolls by arriving closer to your destination.
  The Chance to Recharge: On longer crossings, booking a day cabin can be a game-changer. It provides a private space to nap or shower, turning a potentially tiring travel day into a period of genuine rest.
  Atmosphere and Scenery: There is something undeniably special about watching the White Cliffs of Dover fade into the distance or seeing the French coastline appear on the horizon. It turns the crossing into a "mini-cruise," complete with restaurants, shops, and fresh sea air.

  The Trade-off: Ferries are subject to the whims of the weather and tidal schedules. If a port is particularly busy or the tides are difficult, you may find yourself waiting in the harbor longer than expected.

Which One Wins?

The "clear winner" usually boils down to your itinerary:

Choose the Eurotunnel if you are on a tight schedule, have a vehicle that is difficult to maneuver on ramps, or simply want to get the crossing over with as fast as possible.
Choose the Ferry if you want to arrive further south, reduce your driving miles on the continent, or prefer to start your trip with a leisurely meal and a view of the sea.

Ultimately, both methods have their place in a motorhomer’s toolkit. While the tunnel is a feat of engineering that gets you there in a flash, the ferry remains the best way to embrace the slow-travel lifestyle that makes motorhoming so rewarding.

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Motorhome Tyres

 

The Rubber Reality: Why Your Motorhome Tyres are a Life-or-Death Decision

Let’s be honest: buying a new set of tyres for your campervan or motorhome is about as exciting as watching a grey tank drain. It’s a "grudge purchase." Most of us wait until the MOT tester points a finger at a thinning tread or a cracked sidewall before we even consider spending our hard-earned touring budget on four black rings of rubber. We head to the local tyre shop, hand over a significant chunk of change, and walk away with something that looks exactly like what we had before. It feels like a hidden tax on our freedom.

But here is the reality: treating this as a casual decision—or worse, asking for the "cheapest thing that fits"—is one of the most dangerous mistakes a tourer can make. Those small contact patches are the only thing keeping 3.5 tonnes (or more) of vehicle, family, and kit glued to the road. They endure a brutal existence, facing extreme temperature shifts, massive static loads while parked, and the literal weight of your lifestyle. Understanding the engineering behind them isn't just for "petrolheads"; it’s a fundamental part of staying safe on the road.

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More Than Just Rubber: The Anatomy of a Tyre

It is a common misconception that a tyre is just a big ring of bouncy rubber. In truth, natural rubber—while essential—only makes up about 15% to 30% of the total product. Interestingly, natural rubber is actually brown. That iconic black finish comes from carbon black, a fine powder that reinforces the rubber and helps pull heat away from the tread. If it sounds familiar, that’s because it’s the same pigment found in everything from printer toner to mascara.

The real strength of a motorhome tyre lies beneath the surface. It is a complex sandwich of up to 200 different raw materials and 25 separate components. Designers use high-strength steel wires for the belts and a mix of synthetic fibers like rayon, nylon, and aramid for the reinforcing cords. A single tyre can contain a dozen different rubber compounds, each one a "secret recipe" optimized for specific tasks, like gripping a wet Highland road or maintaining its shape under the crushing weight of a fully-laden A-Class.

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The Cost of "Cheap": Premium vs. Budget

The market is currently flooded with budget tyres from low-cost overseas manufacturers. On paper, they meet the basic legal requirements, but in the real world, the performance gap is terrifying.

In a recent 2025 ADAC test, experts measured the stopping distance of various tyres on a wet road from 80kph (roughly 50mph).

• The Premium Tyre (from brands like Michelin, Continental, or Bridgestone) brought the vehicle to a halt in 28.7 metres.

• The Budget Tyre took a staggering 45.1 metres to reach zero.

That 16.4-metre difference isn’t just a statistic. It’s the length of three VW Transporters or two large motorhomes. If a car pulls out in front of you on a rainy motorway, that extra distance is the difference between a frantic "close call" and a catastrophic impact. Budget tyres also have a significantly lower "aquaplaning" threshold, meaning they lose contact with the road much sooner when driving through standing water.

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Knowing When to Quit: The 3mm and 5-Year Rule

Most motorhomes don't "wear out" their tyres in the traditional sense; instead, the tyres "age out."

1. The Tread Depth

Legally, you can run your tyres down to 1.6mm (or 1mm for vehicles over 3.5t). However, the touring community and safety experts strongly advise replacing them at 3mm. Why? Because once the tread depth drops below 3mm, the tyre's ability to disperse water drops off a cliff.

You can check this using the 20p coin test: insert the coin into the tread; if you can see the outer border of the coin, you’re likely below 3mm and should be looking for replacements. However, for the price of a pint, you can buy a digital tread gauge which is far more accurate.

2. The Age Factor

Even if your tyres look like they have "showroom" tread, the rubber itself is a living chemical compound that degrades over time. Exposure to UV rays, temperature cycles, and salt causes the rubber to harden and develop "crazing"—tiny cracks in the sidewall.

• The 5-7 Year Rule: Most major clubs suggest replacing tyres every five to seven years regardless of mileage.

• The Date Code: On every sidewall, there is an oval box with four numbers (e.g., 0426). This tells you the tyre was manufactured in the 4th week of 2026. If you find a three-digit code, those tyres were made before the year 2000 and are a serious safety hazard.

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Decoding the Sidewall: "C" vs. "CP"

When you look at the numbers on your tyre (like 215/70 R15), you need to pay special attention to the letters following the size.

• "C" (Commercial): These are standard van tyres. They are designed for high-mileage delivery vans. They are the bare minimum requirement for a campervan.

• "CP" (Camping): These are the gold standard. A CP-rated tyre is specifically engineered for motorhomes. They feature reinforced sidewalls to handle the fact that motorhomes often sit at their maximum weight capacity for long periods. Standard van tyres can develop "flat spots" if left stationary, but CP tyres are built to resist this. They also usually feature M+S (Mud and Snow) ratings, which are essential for getting traction on a damp campsite pitch.

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The EV Revolution

If you’ve made the jump to an electric campervan, your tyre needs are even more specific. EVs are significantly heavier due to their battery packs, requiring tyres with extra-stiff sidewalls. Furthermore, electric motors deliver massive torque instantly, which can shred standard tyres. EV-specific tyres also feature internal foam pads to dampen "road roar," which is far more noticeable without the rumble of a diesel engine.

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Pressure and Weight: The Weighbridge Method

Setting your tyre pressure based on the sticker in the door is often just a guess. Because we all load our vans differently—adding solar panels, bike racks, and full water tanks—your "ideal" pressure is unique to your vehicle.

The most accurate way to set your pressures is to visit a public weighbridge.

1. Weigh the front axle (just the front wheels on the plate).

2. Weigh the total vehicle.

3. Calculate the rear axle weight (Total minus Front).

Armed with these exact figures, you can look up the pressure tables provided by your tyre manufacturer (Continental and Michelin have excellent online guides). This ensures your tyres wear evenly and provide the maximum possible grip. Remember, the DVSA now uses "weight-in-motion" sensors on motorways to catch overloaded vehicles—don’t let a poorly loaded van lead to a fine or a blowout.

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The Verdict

Maintaining your tyres isn't just about passing an MOT; it’s about the peace of mind that comes with knowing you can stop when you need to. Get into the habit of a visual check before every trip. Look for cuts, bulges, or embedded stones. Check your pressures monthly, as they naturally drop over time.

Investing in a premium, CP-rated tyre might feel like a "grudge purchase" today, but if you ever have to perform an emergency stop on a wet motorway, you’ll realize it was the best money you ever spent. Your family’s safety is riding on those four black rings—don't skimp on them.

Stay safe on the road, and we'll see you at the next pitch!

Powering Your Freedom

Powering Your Freedom: The Ultimate Guide to Off-Grid Motorhome Electricity

Electricity is the lifeblood of the modern motorhome. From the LED lights and the toilet flush to the fan that pushes heat through your vents, almost nothing functions without it. While we all love the convenience of an electric hook-up (EHU), true freedom often lies off the beaten track.

So, how do you ensure you never run out of power when you’re "wild" camping or touring remote areas of the UK and Europe? Here is a breakdown of how to build a robust off-grid power system.

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1. The Foundation: Your Battery Bank

If you want to stay off-grid, the single lead-acid battery that came with your van likely won't cut it.

• Upgrade to Lithium (LiFePO4): Lithium is a game-changer. These batteries are lighter, more energy-dense, and can be discharged almost completely without damage. One 150Ah lithium battery often provides more usable power than two traditional lead-acid units.

• Capacity Matters: For families or heavy users, look toward 200Ah to 300Ah setups. Some high-end units now offer over 600Ah, which can power a van for weeks!

• Safety First: Always ensure any additional battery is fused close to the terminal. Without a fuse, a fault can turn your wiring into a fire hazard.

2. The Real Gamechanger: B2B Chargers

Many people think solar is the first step, but a Battery-to-Battery (B2B) charger (like those from EcoFlow or NDS) is often more important, especially if you move locations every few days.

• How it works: Think of it as a "supercharger" powered by your engine.

• The Benefit: While a standard mains charger might give you 20A, a B2B charger can shove 40A to 80A into your leisure battery while you drive.

• Result: A few hours of driving between sites can completely refill a depleted battery bank, making you much less dependent on the sun or a plug.

3. Harnessing the Sun: Solar Panels

Solar is a fantastic "fit-and-forget" supplement.

• Bigger is Better: Aim for a 150W panel as a minimum. If you have the roof space and payload, a 400W array can produce upwards of 24A in peak summer.

• Winter Realities: Remember that a panel producing 8A in July might only give you 0.1A in a British December. To combat this, opt for an MPPT regulator, which is far more efficient at harvesting energy than cheaper PWM versions.

4. Using Mains Gadgets: Inverters

If you want to use a Nespresso machine, a microwave, or a hairdryer off-grid, you need an inverter to convert 12V DC power into 230V AC power.

• The Cost of Comfort: High-wattage items draw massive current. A 1500W inverter can pull over 100A from your battery. Use these for short bursts only.

• Pro Tip: Look for leisure-specific appliances. Low-wattage kettles and toasters take longer to boil but won't "trip" your system or flatten your battery instantly.

5. Portable Power Stations

Units from brands like EcoFlow, Jackery, or Bluetti are essentially "all-in-one" boxes containing a battery, inverter, and charger.

• Why use them? They require zero DIY installation. They are perfect for cooking with an air fryer outside or powering a laptop in the awning without touching your van's main leisure battery.

• Portability: They are great for hobbies—like inflating paddleboards or charging e-bikes—away from the vehicle.

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The Verdict: Where Should You Spend Your Money?

If you’re looking to upgrade your setup for a trip through the Highlands or across the Continent, follow this priority list:

1. Upgrade the Battery: Move to a high-capacity Lithium unit.

2. Install a B2B Charger: Ensure you're charging at maximum speed while moving.

3. Add Solar: For "free" top-ups while you’re parked up.

4. Add an Inverter or Power Station: Only if you absolutely need 230V "home" appliances.

By focusing on storage and efficient charging first, you’ll spend less time worrying about your voltmeter and more time enjoying the view!

 

A fresh Approach to travelling in a motorhome

The Slow Travel Revolution: Mastering the Motorhome “Rule of Three”

In the world of motorhoming, there is a fine line between a refreshing adventure and an exhausting logistical marathon. Many newcomers and even seasoned veterans fall into the trap of "destination chasing," where the goal is to see as much as possible in the shortest time.

However, how about a different way

 that flips this approach on its head: The Rule of Three. It’s not just a set of instructions; it’s a mindset shift toward slower, more mindful travel.

1. The Three-Hour Driving Cap: Quality Over Kilometers

The first pillar of the rule is simple: Never drive more than three hours in a single day. While three hours in a car might feel like a breeze, three hours behind the wheel of a motorhome is a different beast entirely. You are managing a large, heavy vehicle that is sensitive to crosswinds, requires longer braking distances, and demands constant vigilance for low bridges or narrow lanes.

Why it works:

• Mental Freshness: Fatigue is the enemy of safety and enjoyment. By capping your drive, you arrive at your destination with the energy to actually enjoy setting up camp.
• The "Secret" Morning: If you start at 10:00 AM, you’re parked by 1:00 PM. This gives you a whole afternoon to explore, rather than rolling into a site at dusk, stressed and hungry.
• Passenger Harmony: Whether you’re traveling with a partner, children, or pets, three hours is generally the threshold before "cabin fever" sets in.

2. The Three-Day Residency: The "Three-Day Unfold"

The second pillar is to stay parked for at least three days. The magic of this rule lies in the psychological transition that happens when you stop moving.

• Day 1: The Transition. You arrive, level the van, connect the utilities, and perhaps head out for a quick local walk. This day is about shedding the "travel mode" and entering "relax mode."
• Day 2: Deep Immersion. This is your primary exploration day. Because you aren’t worried about packing up tomorrow, you can take that 10-mile hike, spend four hours in a local museum, or linger over a long lunch in a village pub.
• Day 3: The Bonus. This is often the best day. You’ve found the best local bakery, you know which paths lead to the best views, and you can truly do nothing if you choose. It’s the day that provides the most mental restoration.

The Practical Edge: Staying for three days drastically reduces your "chore-to-fun" ratio. You only pack the ramps, hoses, and cables once every 72 hours instead of every 24.

3. The Rain Clause: The Power of the Pivot

The final, more flexible part of the rule is the "Weather Clause": If it’s raining on day three, move on or head home.

One of the greatest assets of a motorhome is its wheels. Unlike a hotel stay, you aren't a "hostage" to the local weather.

• Avoid the "Damp Funk": Living in a small space during a downpour is cozy for a day. By day three, wet coats, muddy paw prints, and condensation can start to grate on your nerves.
• The Sun-Chaser Mentality: Use weather apps to look 100 miles in any direction. If the sun is shining two hours south, the Rule of Three gives you the permission to break your itinerary and chase the light.

4. Technical and Financial Benefits

Beyond the "zen" of slow travel, the Rule of Three is remarkably kind to your wallet and your vehicle.

Benefit	How the Rule of Three Helps
Fuel Economy	Less distance covered means lower fuel costs and a smaller carbon footprint.
Vehicle Longevity	Reduced mileage means less wear on tires, brakes, and engine components.
Site Discounts	Many campsites offer lower nightly rates for stays of three nights or more.
Safety	Driving while refreshed significantly reduces the risk of minor scuffs or major accidents.

5. Applying the Rule to Your Next Trip

If you’re planning a week-long trip, don't try to "do" the entire North Coast 500 or the whole of Cornwall. Instead:

1. Pick two key locations.
2. Spend three nights at each.
3. Keep the transit between them under three hours.

As Motorhome Matt suggests, you will come home with richer memories of the places you actually saw, rather than a blurred memory of the tarmac you drove over.

Want to hear more? You can catch more insights on the Motorhome Matt Podcast or follow the community discussions on Discord and Facebook to see how others are slowing down their pace.

How do you handle your tours? Do you prefer the "marathon" or the "slow crawl"?

https://linktr.ee/johnnyburr

 

The  Motorhome Buying Guide

NEC Birmingham

Hello everyone, and welcome back. I’m Johnny Burr, and today we are tackling the first of many big decisions you’ll have to make on your journey to find the ideal home on wheels. We are talking about choosing the right motorhome for you.

Now, if you’ve ever been to a show like the NEC in Birmingham you know exactly what I’m talking about. You walk in, and it is a total assault on the senses. You’ve got the LED mood lighting, the smell of brand-new upholstery, and those clever salespeople who make every 'van look like a palace.

It’s what I call 'Showroom Goggles.' You see the shiny sink, you see the plush cushions, and suddenly you’re imagining yourself parked on a cliffside on the Amalfi Coast. But wait. Before you hand over that deposit, we need to talk about the reality of living, driving, and maintaining these machines. We aren't buying a brochure photo; we’re buying a tool for travel. Today, I’m breaking down the expert tips from Peter Rosenthal and adding a bit of my own 'on-the-road' wisdom to make sure your dream 'van doesn't become a driveway ornament."

Let’s start with the boring stuff, because if you get this wrong, you aren't going anywhere. We’re talking about the 3,500kg line.

In the UK, if you have a standard Category B license, you are capped at three-and-a-half tonnes. Now, for a small campervan, that’s fine. But for a family, coach built or a massive A-Class? You are likely going to need a C1 license.

And here’s the kicker for my fellow 'seasoned' travellers: If you are 70 or older, that C1 entitlement has to be renewed every three years. It requires a medical check, and it’s not guaranteed. If you don’t want the hassle of a doctor deciding your holiday plans, you might want to stick to the sub-3.5-tonne 'vans.

Don't just look at the 'berths.' Look at the MAM (Maximum Authorised Mass). If you buy a 'van that’s 3,800kg and you’ve only got a B license, you are driving illegally, your insurance is void, and you're one weigh-bridge away from a very bad day. Check your license first."

Don’t be a badge snob. I see so many people get hung up on wanting a Mercedes or a VW just for the name.

Here is the truth: modern base vehicles—whether it’s Fiat, Ford, or Peugeot—all drive remarkably well. Reliability across the big brands is closer than it’s ever been. What actually matters isn't the badge on the grill; it’s the dealer down the road.

Think of a motorhome like a house, not a car. They are hand-built. That means things will go wrong. You’ll find a leaky tap, or a cupboard door that doesn't quite latch after a bumpy road in the Highlands. If your dealer is 200 miles away, a 'minor snag' becomes a two-day expedition just to get a screw tightened. Buy local. Having a dealer you can drop into for warranty work is worth more than any fancy hood ornament."

Let’s step inside and talk about the 'Habitation' area. We spend a lot of time talking about engines, but you’re going to spend more time in the bathroom than under the bonnet.

The Shower Test: Avoid shower curtains at all costs. Every experienced motorhomer is nodding their head right now. When you turn on the hot water in a small space, the steam creates a vacuum, and that plastic curtain sticks to you like 'human cling-film.' It’s a miserable way to start a holiday. Look for solid shower doors.

And look at the floor! Look for twin drain holes. If your 'van only has one drain and you’re parked on a tiny 1-degree tilt, you’ll end up standing in an inch of soapy water. It’s the little things that make or break the experience."

Now, beds. Are you a 'Fixed Bed' person or a 'Convertible Lounge' person?

In the showroom, the convertible lounge looks great—it’s so spacious! But imagine it’s 11 PM, it’s raining outside, you’re tired, and now you have to wrestle cushions into a bed like a game of Tetris. Every single night.

I’ve done both. For a weekend, the puzzle is fine. For a month-long tour, a fixed bed is a godsend. You just fall into it. No setup, no hassle. Know your own patience level before you choose."

Now, something you can’t see in the showroom: Heat. You have two main camps: Gas (LPG) and Diesel.

Gas systems like Truma are quiet and efficient, but they lead to what I call the '3 AM Bottle Swap.' We’ve all been there. It’s freezing, the heater cuts out, and you realize you’re out of gas. Now you’re outside in your pyjamas, in the dark, wrestling with a spanner.

If you go gas, I highly recommend a refillable system like Gaslow. It’s a game-changer. But if you’re planning on 'proper' wild camping or winter touring, Diesel heaters tap directly into your vehicle’s fuel tank. If you’ve got diesel in the engine, you’ve got heat. No bottles, no fuss. It’s the ultimate off-grid choice."

What’s under the seat matters as much as what’s under the bonnet. Most 'vans come with standard Lead Acid or AGM batteries. I call these 'lead anchors.' You can only use about 50% of their power before you risk killing them.

If you want true freedom, you want Lithium (LiFePO4). They are lighter, they charge faster, and you can drain them almost to zero. Pair that with a decent Solar setup (aim for 200W or more) and a DC-DC charger, and you can stay off-grid in the Scottish wilds for days without ever needing a hook-up cable. Invest in your power system before you spend money on a fancy satellite dish!"

If you’ve got a family, listen closely. This is the biggest safety pitfall. Just because a 'van 'sleeps six' doesn't mean it can 'carry six.'

You must have a belted travel seat for every passenger. Never, ever carry someone on a side-facing sofa without a belt. It’s illegal, and it’s dangerous.

And watch your Payload. By the time you add four or five people, a full tank of water, some bikes, and the dog—you are likely over your weight limit. If you’re a big family, you almost certainly need that C1 license and a heavier chassis to stay legal and safe."

My final, golden rule: Hire before you buy. Spend £500 to hire a 'van with the layout you think you want. Spend a weekend in it. It is the best insurance policy in the world. You’ll learn more in 48 hours of actually living in a 'van than in 48 hours of watching YouTube reviews. You’ll realize the fridge is too small, or the bed is too short, and you’ll save yourself a £70,000 mistake.

That’s it for today’s deep dive. Do your homework, take your time, and don’t let the LED lights dazzle you.

Linktree https://linktr.ee/johnnyburr

 

Dash Cams for Motorhomes?

 Dash Cams for Motorhomes - Essential Safety or Just More Gadget Clutter?

Today I’m talking about the should you or shouldn’t you invest in a dash cam.

Okay, let's set the scene. You're cruising down a beautiful B-road in your motorhome, the sun is shining, and suddenly… the car in front of you decides that now is the perfect time for an unannounced, unscheduled, and completely illegal emergency stop.

Your heart sinks. It’s going to be your word against theirs. But what if you had a silent, unblinking witness on your dashboard? A little gadget that says, "I saw the whole thing, and frankly, it was ridiculous." 

Today, we’re going to chat about the best dash cams for motorhomes and campervans, with a special focus on what really matters for us UK drivers. We're going to cut through the tech jargon and find you a co-pilot that won't argue over the facts.

 

So your first question is do you really need one? I mean, you’ve already got a sat-nav, a reversing camera, probably a fancy coffee machine… is this just gadget overload?

Well, think of it like this. People get dash cams for two main reasons. First, there’s the “David Attenborough” reason: you want to film your epic journeys from the Highlands to the Cornish coast.

And then there’s the “Cover Your Backside” reason. Sadly, here in the UK, we have a particular pest to deal with: the "crash for cash" scam. A dash cam is your best defence. It’s the difference between a he-said-she-said argument and you calmly saying, “Well, let’s just see what the camera saw.”

Are there downsides? Sure. The main one is distraction. Fiddling with it while driving a vehicle the size of a small bungalow is a problem. Also, some places like Portugal have strict privacy laws, so you might have to give your dash cam a little holiday while you’re there.

And will it automatically lower your insurance? Probably not. But it will stop your premiums from rocketing into space after a non-fault accident, which is basically the same thing but with better PR.

 

Alright, so you’re convinced. How do you choose one without getting a headache? Let’s break it down into simple terms. And for us in the UK, there's one feature that's a real game-changer...

First, Image Quality. You don’t want footage that looks like it was filmed on a potato from 2005. Can you read number plates? And crucially, how is the night vision? A UK winter is basically one long night, so this is vital.

Next, Field of View. A narrow lens just films the strip of tarmac directly in front of you. A wide-angle lens, say 170 degrees or more, captures the stunning scenery AND the idiot… ahem, the other driver… who’s about to pull out on you.

Then, The Techy Stuff. How do you get the footage? Does it save to a simple SD card you pop into your laptop? Or does it connect to a smartphone app?

And now for the big one, especially for UK drivers: GPS. Do you need it?

This is huge. A dashcam without GPS answers the question "What happened?" A dashcam with GPS answers the much more powerful question "What happened, where, when, and how fast?"

Here’s why GPS is so important for us:

• It's All About the Evidence: GPS stamps your video with the exact location, time, and your speed. For your insurance company or even the police, this is gold dust. It proves you were where you said you were, and crucially, that you were driving within the speed limit. Yes, it works both ways – it could prove you were speeding – but for honest drivers, it’s a massive benefit.
• Fighting "Crash for Cash": This is the big one. These scams rely on confusion. GPS data provides irrefutable proof of your speed and position, making your claim rock-solid.
• What3Words Integration: This is a brilliant UK favourite. Many cams now link to what3words. If you have an incident in the middle of nowhere, it can give emergency services your exact 3-metre square location instantly. That’s a proper lifeline.

So, for a UK motorhome driver, I'd say GPS is highly recommended. You're driving a big, valuable vehicle that could be a target. The peace of mind is worth it.

 

Okay, let’s get to the good stuff. The recommendations. I’ve added Amazon links in the description of all the dash cams mentioned here. I’ve split them into three budgets.

First up, The Budget-Friendly Brigade, for under £50.

Here, I’d look at something like the ORSKEY 1080P Dash Cam. This is the reliable workhorse. It’s not flashy, but it does the job perfectly well. Easy to set up, decent picture. The main con? The night vision is just… okay. And remember to buy an SD card separately! No GPS here, but a great start.

Next, The Sweet Spot Squad, for under £100.

This is where features like GPS start to appear. Check out the AZDOME 2K Dash Cam. This one’s a bit of a show-off with super sharp video and that all-important built-in Wi-Fi and GPS. The quality is fantastic for the price. The downside? Setting up the Wi-Fi can be a bit fiddly, and the SD card is often sold separately. Classic. This is a great option if you want that crucial GPS data without breaking the bank.

And finally, The "Money is No Object" Marvels, for over £100.

If you want the best of the best, the Nextbase 622GW 4K Dash Cam is like the Rolls-Royce. The 4K video is stunningly clear, it has Alexa built-in, and it has brilliant GPS integration with what3words. You can even add a second camera to film inside the cab. It’s brilliant, but it’s pricey, and you’ll need a specific, high-endurance SD card. This is the ultimate evidence-gathering machine for the UK driver.

 

So, you’ve bought one! How do you fit it?

If you go for a simple wireless model, it’s a dream. Suction cup it to the windscreen, plug it into your 12v socket, and you’re done.

But if you want features like 24/7 parking mode, that usually means hardwiring it into your motorhome’s electrics. And here comes the BIG WARNING: if you’re not 100% confident with electrics, get a professional to do this. A mistake could drain your leisure battery faster than you can say “I need a cup of tea,” leaving you with a very expensive, very stationary brick.

Place it high up in the centre of your windscreen where it doesn’t block your view. That’s kind of important.

 

Final thoughts. Is a dash cam worth it for your UK motorhome?

In my opinion, absolutely. And for the reasons we've discussed, spending a bit more for one with GPS is a really smart move for the extra protection. It’s one of those gadgets you’ll fit and forget about, until the day you really, really need it. And let's be honest, when it comes to our homes on wheels, you can never have too many gadgets.

What do you think? Do you have a dash cam with GPS that you love? Has it ever saved you? Let me know in the comments below!

Remember – always keep the rubber side down.

 

Don't forget to like and subscribe for more motorhome tips and tricks. See you next time!

 

 

ORSKEY 1080P Dash Cam 

AZDOME 2K Dash Cam 

Nextbase 622GW 4K Dash Cam 

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