The  Motorhome Buying Guide

NEC Birmingham

Hello everyone, and welcome back. I’m Johnny Burr, and today we are tackling the first of many big decisions you’ll have to make on your journey to find the ideal home on wheels. We are talking about choosing the right motorhome for you.

Now, if you’ve ever been to a show like the NEC in Birmingham you know exactly what I’m talking about. You walk in, and it is a total assault on the senses. You’ve got the LED mood lighting, the smell of brand-new upholstery, and those clever salespeople who make every 'van look like a palace.

It’s what I call 'Showroom Goggles.' You see the shiny sink, you see the plush cushions, and suddenly you’re imagining yourself parked on a cliffside on the Amalfi Coast. But wait. Before you hand over that deposit, we need to talk about the reality of living, driving, and maintaining these machines. We aren't buying a brochure photo; we’re buying a tool for travel. Today, I’m breaking down the expert tips from Peter Rosenthal and adding a bit of my own 'on-the-road' wisdom to make sure your dream 'van doesn't become a driveway ornament."

Let’s start with the boring stuff, because if you get this wrong, you aren't going anywhere. We’re talking about the 3,500kg line.

In the UK, if you have a standard Category B license, you are capped at three-and-a-half tonnes. Now, for a small campervan, that’s fine. But for a family, coach built or a massive A-Class? You are likely going to need a C1 license.

And here’s the kicker for my fellow 'seasoned' travellers: If you are 70 or older, that C1 entitlement has to be renewed every three years. It requires a medical check, and it’s not guaranteed. If you don’t want the hassle of a doctor deciding your holiday plans, you might want to stick to the sub-3.5-tonne 'vans.

Don't just look at the 'berths.' Look at the MAM (Maximum Authorised Mass). If you buy a 'van that’s 3,800kg and you’ve only got a B license, you are driving illegally, your insurance is void, and you're one weigh-bridge away from a very bad day. Check your license first."

Don’t be a badge snob. I see so many people get hung up on wanting a Mercedes or a VW just for the name.

Here is the truth: modern base vehicles—whether it’s Fiat, Ford, or Peugeot—all drive remarkably well. Reliability across the big brands is closer than it’s ever been. What actually matters isn't the badge on the grill; it’s the dealer down the road.

Think of a motorhome like a house, not a car. They are hand-built. That means things will go wrong. You’ll find a leaky tap, or a cupboard door that doesn't quite latch after a bumpy road in the Highlands. If your dealer is 200 miles away, a 'minor snag' becomes a two-day expedition just to get a screw tightened. Buy local. Having a dealer you can drop into for warranty work is worth more than any fancy hood ornament."

Let’s step inside and talk about the 'Habitation' area. We spend a lot of time talking about engines, but you’re going to spend more time in the bathroom than under the bonnet.

The Shower Test: Avoid shower curtains at all costs. Every experienced motorhomer is nodding their head right now. When you turn on the hot water in a small space, the steam creates a vacuum, and that plastic curtain sticks to you like 'human cling-film.' It’s a miserable way to start a holiday. Look for solid shower doors.

And look at the floor! Look for twin drain holes. If your 'van only has one drain and you’re parked on a tiny 1-degree tilt, you’ll end up standing in an inch of soapy water. It’s the little things that make or break the experience."

Now, beds. Are you a 'Fixed Bed' person or a 'Convertible Lounge' person?

In the showroom, the convertible lounge looks great—it’s so spacious! But imagine it’s 11 PM, it’s raining outside, you’re tired, and now you have to wrestle cushions into a bed like a game of Tetris. Every single night.

I’ve done both. For a weekend, the puzzle is fine. For a month-long tour, a fixed bed is a godsend. You just fall into it. No setup, no hassle. Know your own patience level before you choose."

Now, something you can’t see in the showroom: Heat. You have two main camps: Gas (LPG) and Diesel.

Gas systems like Truma are quiet and efficient, but they lead to what I call the '3 AM Bottle Swap.' We’ve all been there. It’s freezing, the heater cuts out, and you realize you’re out of gas. Now you’re outside in your pyjamas, in the dark, wrestling with a spanner.

If you go gas, I highly recommend a refillable system like Gaslow. It’s a game-changer. But if you’re planning on 'proper' wild camping or winter touring, Diesel heaters tap directly into your vehicle’s fuel tank. If you’ve got diesel in the engine, you’ve got heat. No bottles, no fuss. It’s the ultimate off-grid choice."

What’s under the seat matters as much as what’s under the bonnet. Most 'vans come with standard Lead Acid or AGM batteries. I call these 'lead anchors.' You can only use about 50% of their power before you risk killing them.

If you want true freedom, you want Lithium (LiFePO4). They are lighter, they charge faster, and you can drain them almost to zero. Pair that with a decent Solar setup (aim for 200W or more) and a DC-DC charger, and you can stay off-grid in the Scottish wilds for days without ever needing a hook-up cable. Invest in your power system before you spend money on a fancy satellite dish!"

If you’ve got a family, listen closely. This is the biggest safety pitfall. Just because a 'van 'sleeps six' doesn't mean it can 'carry six.'

You must have a belted travel seat for every passenger. Never, ever carry someone on a side-facing sofa without a belt. It’s illegal, and it’s dangerous.

And watch your Payload. By the time you add four or five people, a full tank of water, some bikes, and the dog—you are likely over your weight limit. If you’re a big family, you almost certainly need that C1 license and a heavier chassis to stay legal and safe."

My final, golden rule: Hire before you buy. Spend £500 to hire a 'van with the layout you think you want. Spend a weekend in it. It is the best insurance policy in the world. You’ll learn more in 48 hours of actually living in a 'van than in 48 hours of watching YouTube reviews. You’ll realize the fridge is too small, or the bed is too short, and you’ll save yourself a £70,000 mistake.

That’s it for today’s deep dive. Do your homework, take your time, and don’t let the LED lights dazzle you.

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Dash Cams for Motorhomes?

 Dash Cams for Motorhomes - Essential Safety or Just More Gadget Clutter?

Today I’m talking about the should you or shouldn’t you invest in a dash cam.

Okay, let's set the scene. You're cruising down a beautiful B-road in your motorhome, the sun is shining, and suddenly… the car in front of you decides that now is the perfect time for an unannounced, unscheduled, and completely illegal emergency stop.

Your heart sinks. It’s going to be your word against theirs. But what if you had a silent, unblinking witness on your dashboard? A little gadget that says, "I saw the whole thing, and frankly, it was ridiculous." 

Today, we’re going to chat about the best dash cams for motorhomes and campervans, with a special focus on what really matters for us UK drivers. We're going to cut through the tech jargon and find you a co-pilot that won't argue over the facts.

 

So your first question is do you really need one? I mean, you’ve already got a sat-nav, a reversing camera, probably a fancy coffee machine… is this just gadget overload?

Well, think of it like this. People get dash cams for two main reasons. First, there’s the “David Attenborough” reason: you want to film your epic journeys from the Highlands to the Cornish coast.

And then there’s the “Cover Your Backside” reason. Sadly, here in the UK, we have a particular pest to deal with: the "crash for cash" scam. A dash cam is your best defence. It’s the difference between a he-said-she-said argument and you calmly saying, “Well, let’s just see what the camera saw.”

Are there downsides? Sure. The main one is distraction. Fiddling with it while driving a vehicle the size of a small bungalow is a problem. Also, some places like Portugal have strict privacy laws, so you might have to give your dash cam a little holiday while you’re there.

And will it automatically lower your insurance? Probably not. But it will stop your premiums from rocketing into space after a non-fault accident, which is basically the same thing but with better PR.

 

Alright, so you’re convinced. How do you choose one without getting a headache? Let’s break it down into simple terms. And for us in the UK, there's one feature that's a real game-changer...

First, Image Quality. You don’t want footage that looks like it was filmed on a potato from 2005. Can you read number plates? And crucially, how is the night vision? A UK winter is basically one long night, so this is vital.

Next, Field of View. A narrow lens just films the strip of tarmac directly in front of you. A wide-angle lens, say 170 degrees or more, captures the stunning scenery AND the idiot… ahem, the other driver… who’s about to pull out on you.

Then, The Techy Stuff. How do you get the footage? Does it save to a simple SD card you pop into your laptop? Or does it connect to a smartphone app?

And now for the big one, especially for UK drivers: GPS. Do you need it?

This is huge. A dashcam without GPS answers the question "What happened?" A dashcam with GPS answers the much more powerful question "What happened, where, when, and how fast?"

Here’s why GPS is so important for us:

• It's All About the Evidence: GPS stamps your video with the exact location, time, and your speed. For your insurance company or even the police, this is gold dust. It proves you were where you said you were, and crucially, that you were driving within the speed limit. Yes, it works both ways – it could prove you were speeding – but for honest drivers, it’s a massive benefit.
• Fighting "Crash for Cash": This is the big one. These scams rely on confusion. GPS data provides irrefutable proof of your speed and position, making your claim rock-solid.
• What3Words Integration: This is a brilliant UK favourite. Many cams now link to what3words. If you have an incident in the middle of nowhere, it can give emergency services your exact 3-metre square location instantly. That’s a proper lifeline.

So, for a UK motorhome driver, I'd say GPS is highly recommended. You're driving a big, valuable vehicle that could be a target. The peace of mind is worth it.

 

Okay, let’s get to the good stuff. The recommendations. I’ve added Amazon links in the description of all the dash cams mentioned here. I’ve split them into three budgets.

First up, The Budget-Friendly Brigade, for under £50.

Here, I’d look at something like the ORSKEY 1080P Dash Cam. This is the reliable workhorse. It’s not flashy, but it does the job perfectly well. Easy to set up, decent picture. The main con? The night vision is just… okay. And remember to buy an SD card separately! No GPS here, but a great start.

Next, The Sweet Spot Squad, for under £100.

This is where features like GPS start to appear. Check out the AZDOME 2K Dash Cam. This one’s a bit of a show-off with super sharp video and that all-important built-in Wi-Fi and GPS. The quality is fantastic for the price. The downside? Setting up the Wi-Fi can be a bit fiddly, and the SD card is often sold separately. Classic. This is a great option if you want that crucial GPS data without breaking the bank.

And finally, The "Money is No Object" Marvels, for over £100.

If you want the best of the best, the Nextbase 622GW 4K Dash Cam is like the Rolls-Royce. The 4K video is stunningly clear, it has Alexa built-in, and it has brilliant GPS integration with what3words. You can even add a second camera to film inside the cab. It’s brilliant, but it’s pricey, and you’ll need a specific, high-endurance SD card. This is the ultimate evidence-gathering machine for the UK driver.

 

So, you’ve bought one! How do you fit it?

If you go for a simple wireless model, it’s a dream. Suction cup it to the windscreen, plug it into your 12v socket, and you’re done.

But if you want features like 24/7 parking mode, that usually means hardwiring it into your motorhome’s electrics. And here comes the BIG WARNING: if you’re not 100% confident with electrics, get a professional to do this. A mistake could drain your leisure battery faster than you can say “I need a cup of tea,” leaving you with a very expensive, very stationary brick.

Place it high up in the centre of your windscreen where it doesn’t block your view. That’s kind of important.

 

Final thoughts. Is a dash cam worth it for your UK motorhome?

In my opinion, absolutely. And for the reasons we've discussed, spending a bit more for one with GPS is a really smart move for the extra protection. It’s one of those gadgets you’ll fit and forget about, until the day you really, really need it. And let's be honest, when it comes to our homes on wheels, you can never have too many gadgets.

What do you think? Do you have a dash cam with GPS that you love? Has it ever saved you? Let me know in the comments below!

Remember – always keep the rubber side down.

 

Don't forget to like and subscribe for more motorhome tips and tricks. See you next time!

 

 

ORSKEY 1080P Dash Cam 

AZDOME 2K Dash Cam 

Nextbase 622GW 4K Dash Cam 

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 Keeping Your Motorhome Clean

For all Muk Junkie products use code at

checkout "Motorhome Touring" for 10% off all orders

As heard on Caravan Radio

 

The Showroom Shine

The Roof

Let’s talk about the one part of your van you probably haven't looked at in months: the roof. I actually noticed mine from the deck of a ferry to Barra recently and thought, 'What a disgrace!' A dirty roof isn't just an eyesore; it’s a breeding ground for moss and algae that eats away at your skylight seals and causes those stubborn black streaks down the sides of your van."

When tackling the roof, safety is everything. Use a sturdy telescopic ladder and a long-reach brush. My go-to for this is Muk Junkie Caravan and Motorhome Cleaner. Just wet the roof, spray it on, and let it do its thing for a few minutes to break down that grime. Give it a light agitate, don’t forget the solar panels! A clean panel is 20% more efficient than a dirty one. Muk Junkie is tough on the green algae and grime but gentle on your plastics and graphics. Rinse it down and watch the grime slide away. When dry use an automotive wax to protect the surface, your van will thank you in the long run.

 Grab your cleaner at mukjunkie.shop and get that roof gleaming!"

The Bodywork

The sides of your motorhome or caravan take a beating from road salt, traffic film, and the dreaded black streaks. But here’s the thing: you don’t need a separate arsenal of chemicals to get them gleaming. The same Muk Junkie Caravan and Motorhome Cleaner you used on the roof is your best friend. Now, I get asked all the time: 'Is it safe for my decals?' Absolutely! Whether it's factory graphics or custom wraps, this stuff is engineered to be tough on green algae and grime while remaining completely gentle on your plastics and vinyl."

Just wet the walls, spray it on, and let it do its thing. You'll see it start to lift the dirt without stripping your wax. Give it a light agitate with a soft brush or cleaning mitt, then rinse. No harsh scrubbing required, and no risk of peeling back the edges of your graphics. Rinse down each panel and when dry use an automotive wax to seal in that clean shine.

"Keep those walls bright and your decals looking like new. It’s the easiest way to keep your van’s value up. Get yours at mukjunkie.shop and let’s get those vans shining!"

 The "Clear View" Window & Seal Care

Let’s talk about the parts of your van that actually let the light in, the windows and those crucial rubber seals. If you’re using harsh household cleaners here, you’re playing a dangerous game with your acrylics."

Start with the seals. These rubber gaskets keep the rain out, but they trap grit and algae that can eventually cause leaks. The trick is simple: wet the area, and clean out any grime that has collected in the seals, use a soft brush or sponge to get into those grooves. It’s completely safe on the rubber and lifts the grime without drying out the seal. My go to for the seals is a general silicon spray, it’s easy to apply it helps keep the seals soft and water resistant.

Now for the windows. Remember, these aren't glass they're plastic. You need a cleaner like Motorhome/Caravan Acrylic Window Cleaner that’s safe for acrylic to avoid that 'cloudy' look. Spray it on, give it a gentle wipe, and rinse with plenty of water. No scrubbing, no scratches, just a crystal-clear view."

Take care of your windows and they’ll take care of your view. It’s the finishing touch on every great van.

 Wheel & Tyre Care

You’ve got the outside of your van looking mint, but don't hit the roads with dull wheels and brown tyres. Your wheels take the most abuse from UV light, road salt and brake dust, and if you’re using the wrong chemicals, you could be damaging your alloys."

For a safe, professional finish, I use Muk Junkie’sAcid-Free Wheel Cleaner. It’s ready to use right out of the bottle. Just wet the wheel, spray it on, leave it for a few minutes then give it a quick agitate with a brush to lift that baked-on grime. Since it’s acid-free, you don’t have to worry about it eating into your finish. Just rinse it off—and repeat if you’ve been through some serious mud!"

Now, for the finishing touch: The tyres. Once they’re clean and dry, grab a bottle of Muk Junkie Lazy Boy Shine. This stuff is a game-changer. Just spray it directly onto the tyre wall and walk away. No buffing, no fuss—just leave it to develop into a deep, showroom shine while you put the kettle on."

Clean wheels, shiny tyres, and a van that looks brand new from the ground up.  Grab the full kit at mukjunkie.shop and let’s get those vans gleaming!"

The "Bug-Free" Front End

"We’ve all been there. You pull into the campsite after a long summer drive, and the front of your van looks like a bug graveyard. Those baked-on flies aren't just ugly; if you leave them too long, the acidity can actually etch into your paintwork and graphics."

"Standard shampoo usually won't touch them, and you definitely don't want to be scrubbing with anything abrasive. That’s where Muk Junkie Bug Wash comes in. It’s a dedicated formula designed to break down the proteins in those stubborn bug splats. It comes ready to use, so there’s no messing about with mixing."

"The routine is simple: wet the front of the van first to cool the surface. Spray the Bug Wash directly on, let it dwell for a minute, and then give it a light agitate with a soft sponge or brush. You’ll see those bugs just melt away. Give it a final rinse, and your front end is back to a showroom shine."

"Don't let a swarm of flies ruin your vans look. Keep a bottle of Bug Wash in the garage and stay ahead of the grime. Get yours at mukjunkie.shop and keep those fronts gleaming!"

 For all Muk Junkie products use code at

checkout "Motorhome Touring" for 10% off all orders

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Embarrassing Campsite Mishaps!

 

 Whether you are a seasoned tourer or just hitting the road for the first time, we have all had those "rookie" moments that leave us a bit red-faced. To help you keep your dignity (and your deposit) intact, here is a comprehensive guide to the 27 most common campsite blunders and how to avoid them.

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I. Pre-Departure: The Final Checklist

Before you turn the key, ensure these critical items are checked to avoid mechanical damage or getting trapped.

• Check the Site Gates: Always verify the campsite's gate operating hours. Don't get caught behind locked gates at 6:00 AM when you have a ferry or Eurotunnel to catch.

• Disconnect the Hook-up: Driving off with the mains lead still attached can result in a "loud bang" and ripped-out sockets.

• Retract Your Steadies: Driving off with corner steadies down can furrow the pitch or even push the steady through the van's floor. Pro Tip: Leave the winding handle across the driver’s pedals as a physical reminder.

• Secure Rooflights and Windows: A rooflight left open can be torn off at motorway speeds, causing expensive damage and hazards for other drivers.

• Lower the Aerials: Perform a final exterior walk-around to ensure the TV aerial or satellite dish is lowered and all laundry is removed from bike racks.

• The Power Sequence: When unhooking, always remove the cable from the site bollard first. This prevents trailing a live cable across potentially wet grass.

• Collect Your Ramps: It is easy to leave wheel levelling chocks behind on uneven pitches.

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II. Site Etiquette: Being a Good Neighbor

Campsite living is community living. A little consideration goes a long way.

• Respect Private Space: Never walk across someone else’s pitch. Think of a motorhomer’s pitch as their "castle" and maintain their privacy.

• Monitor Noise Levels: Fabric awnings are not soundproof. Keep music and TV volumes low, especially during the evening and at night.

• Manage Barking: A noisy dog can be a major headache for others. Never leave a pet in the van on a hot day or for long periods without water and toys.

• Sociability: Giving a quick "hello" to neighbors can lead to great local recommendations or even an invite to a barbecue.

• Considerate Cooking: Some campers are sensitive to smells. If you’re having a barbecue, use a designated spot or cook at a distance from others.

• Manage Your Guests: Avoid overfilling a four-berth van with extra festival friends. You may regret the decision by 4:00 AM.

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III. Maintenance & Utility Essentials

Preventing small errors can save you from big (and smelly) problems later.

• Toilet Hygiene: Never ignore the red light on your toilet cassette. Overfilling results in a "malodorant" mess that requires deep cleaning of every nook and cranny.

• Waste-Water Management: Only drain waste water where instructed by the site. Driving with an open drain is frowned upon and ruins the reputation of motorhomers.

• Electrical Safety: Never leave your hook-up lead coiled up while plugged in. Coiled cables generate heat and are a fire hazard.

• Awning Care: At the first sign of strong winds, take down or roll in your awning. Dismissing wind warnings can lead to total awning destruction.

• Grass Protection: Don’t assume you can use a groundsheet. Many sites ban them because they kill the grass. Always check with reception before pegging one down.

• Cleanliness: Small spaces get messy fast. Keep a well-stocked cleaning cupboard to avoid being caught without supplies mid-tour.

• The Fridge Clear-Out: Always remove food at the end of a tour. A forgotten wheel of cheese can create a stinky surprise a month later.

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IV. Planning & Connectivity

A successful tour requires a bit of foresight and the right tools.

Navigating and Choosing Sites

Tip	Description
Site Selection	Read reviews to ensure the site matches your needs (e.g., adults-only sites for peace and quiet).
Pitch Choice	Use online maps to request a pitch near washblocks to make emptying containers easier.
Destination Variety	Don't just visit the same favorite spots; mix in new destinations to keep things fresh.
Sat Nav Skepticism	Standard Sat Navs may lead you into lion enclosures or 6ft-high tunnels. Use one modified for motorhomes but always trust your own eyes.

Staying Connected and Prepared

• WiFi Codes: Ask for the WiFi code at reception upon arrival. If you wait until the office closes, you might be left desperately banging on the door.

• Avoiding High Fees: Campsite WiFi can be expensive. Consider hiring a dongle or planning your access before leaving home to avoid hefty charges.

• Packing for Reality: Pack for the weather you might encounter, not just the weather you want. Always include 20% more warm clothing than you expect to need.

• Off-Season Security: If storing your van, use a high-quality wheel clamp for peace of mind and as a visual deterrent.

You can here some of my Top Hints and Tips on Caravan Radio https://caravanradio.co.uk

➡️All Links to the above are on my Linktree⬅️ https://linktr.ee/johnnyburr